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Gucci gang: Going inside ‘The Hacker Project’

Source: Vogue

In April, Gucci and Balenciaga came together for a meta moment in fashion history. ‘Gucciaga’ (or ‘Balen-Gucci’) paved the way for fashion mash-ups in the industry. Now, ‘The Hacker Project’ is dropping anchor in stores worldwide and Vogue India’s digital cover has the inside story

How do you break the internet in 2021? You wait for Gucci and Balenciaga to enter a creative union and give the world Gucciaga. 

In April, as part of the Italian luxury fashion house’s centenary celebrations, Gucci launched Gucci Aria, a ‘hacking’ of its neighbour and peer Balenciaga’s House codes. (Gucci and Balenciaga both belong to  luxury goods group Kering) The result was a meta moment in the social-media driven era of fashion.

Fans caught early signs of the Guccification of Balenciaga. A screen recording of an iMessage tête-à-tête between Michele and co-creative Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga went live on Gucci’s Instagram stories, where Gvasalia confessed his first Gucci purchase in post-USSR Georgia, a bottle of Gucci Envy perfume, the only thing available to buy at the time. The duo then went on to discuss their shared love for the Tom Ford era of Gucci. We strongly concur. 

When the collection hit our screens a few days later, we saw skirt suits and American-footballer shoulders for men and women (silhouettes lifted straight from the Balenciaga runway) splashed with both brand names, Balenciaga’s signature pantashoes remade in Gucci Flora print, the GG motif superimposed onto Balenciaga’s trademark 1980s futurism, and ‘BALENCIAGA’ text appearing on Gucci’s iconic Jackie handbag, and both logos flashing across a crystalline suit, like a match made in heaven. 

In a cheeky way, Gucci Aria is an exploration on ideas of authenticity, counterfeiting and appropriation within the fashion industry. According to a Uswitch study (an online price comparison based in the UK) reported in Forbes India, the term ‘fake Gucci’ has 87,600 searches online, with fake Gucci belts and sneakers leading the pack. For Gucci to then co-opt some of Balenciaga’s couture-esque silhouettes is not only bold but also the start of a domino effect of hackathons. Fendace (Fendi X Versace) and Fendi X Skims, we see you. We’d also really like to see Dior and Valentino—because, why not?

“Demna Gvasalia’s designs for Balenciaga fit into the Gucci Aria collection like an inevitability, reminding us that there is a live, beating heart at the core of fashion and that it is one and the same for all,” Michele said in a statement ahead of the collection launch today. 

Bringing it home with a cover shoot on the terrace of the storied Cloud 9 Cafe in Mumbai, with the Taj Mahal Hotel and Gateway of India in the horizon, is model Radhika Nair. Playing muse for the symbiotic collection, for Nair this shoot comes full circle in many ways. The model, born in Tamil Nadu, made her international runway debut with Balenciaga in 2016. Of her personalised scouting, Henry Mackintosh Thomas, casting agent for the Spanish heritage brand, had told me for the Vogue India September 2018 cover story, “Designers today are interested in characters with a look and attitude. They want to dress these characters and their stories. Radhika—and girls like her—represents this and a youth culture that’s more accepting of the way people are.”

Now, as the model and former Vogue India cover star returns to the cover in a pair of stirrup Gucci leggings and a bomber jacket with Balenciaga’s varsity veridictions, she’s ready to call India and its limitless potential home once again. “It’s so cool for Gucci and Balenciaga to say let’s merge our minds. Because business is all about collaboration, which can make it all the better,” she says, eyes on a distant gleaming sunset…  

Here’s to a new dawn in fashion.

Gucci Aria will be available exclusively at Gucci, DLF Emporio, New Delhi from November 15, 2021.

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Lifestyle

Meeting the rising demand for travel security

Author: Philipp Pointner, Chief of Digital Identity at Jumio

Spending on travel is expected to reach an estimated $8.6 trillion this year, and with it comes a huge potential for fraud. Criminals have realised that travellers provide a gold mine of value, both in the ease of stealing their identities and the high rewards for stealing points from loyalty programs.

With 68% of consumers reporting that they know or suspect that they’ve been a victim of online fraud or identity theft, or that they know someone who has been affected having experienced fraud, trust is a critical currency for travellers sharing their data and details with travel providers, especially when the tools of fraudsters are getting more advanced by the day. Biometric identity verification must become the status quo to combat these ever-advancing threats.

Travel and cybercrime

Before travellers have even stepped foot in an airport, fraudsters can log-in to travel accounts to buy airline tickets with stolen credit cards and sell them to third parties, or they can take over a user’s online account and either buy a ticket with their air miles or transfer the miles to the highest bidder on the dark web. Travel accounts are a prime target for scammers as they hold very sensitive information, such as passports, driver’s licences, dates of birth, and travel dates.

As the digital landscape expands, AI is making travel scams more sophisticated and difficult to detect. Last year, holidaymakers lost more than £12 million to travel fraud, and victims lost an average of £1,851 each. This type of fraud is accelerating through the proliferation of AI, where bad actors flock to online services with high traffic, including vacation booking websites, impersonating a reputable platform or organisation to trick the victim into believing they are in contact with the site’s official representative through an AI chatbot.

The CISO of Booking.com recently stated the site had seen an increase of up to 900% more phishing scams over the past 18 months. These types of attacks often try to convince people to hand over their card details by sending them fake — but convincing — booking links to hotel accommodations. As a result, travellers are more willing than ever to spend more time on thorough identity checks – even if it means enhanced security across multiple touchpoints throughout their journeys.

Using AI to fight travel fraud

Fraud is a crime that benefits from compartmentalisation, at each stage of the journey. From booking flights or accommodations, the security and identity verification processes can differ — multiple accounts, different passwords, and emails — any one of these online checkpoints can be an entry for fraudsters.

To add to this, travellers are expecting fast, seamless experiences without compromising on security — and with the travel industry set to increase its investment in biometrics by 14% in 2024 alone, it’s clear the industry must respond resolutely to fraud concerns.

Whilst AI helps lower the barrier for novice cybercriminals to carry out effective access and information-gathering techniques, such as creating realistic-looking travel booking websites and emails in different languages, travel companies can leverage AI-powered identity verification solutions to strengthen security. These solutions streamline the login process for travellers while also employing advanced measures like facial recognition and liveness detection to confirm user authenticity. This reduces the risk of fraudulent accounts and protects traveller data.

Looking forward

As the digital landscape expands, there will be increased opportunities and generative AI tools for fraudsters to exploit vulnerabilities in travellers’ digital identities. However, companies that have invested significantly in AI-powered fraud controls are well-positioned to combat these advanced techniques used by scammers. With the increased advancements and adoption of AI-enhanced identity verification strategies, alongside the use of biometrics, travel will become a safer and more enjoyable experience for users, ensuring a secure

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Business

Slow but steady: Understanding the smart home revolution

Gavin Miller, CEO, Asurion Europe

As a society, our reliance on digital devices continues to grow as we find new ways to weave connected technology into all manner of products. In the past decade or so we have seen TVs, speakers, doorbells and more incorporating ‘smart’ elements, adding to our network of home devices. Consumers are keen to adopt tools that save time and money, and strengthen safety. The proof is in the numbers: the global smart home appliance market, for instance, is set to more than double in value – from $59 billion in 2022 to $143 billion by 2030.[i]

All this technology is changing the way we go about our daily activities. We are able to do chores like our weekly food shop without leaving the home and enjoy entertainment via multiple platforms. But this is not to say we have disregarded the old ways completely. Book consumption has risen[ii] and for some items we still prefer to go to a physical store. To take advantage of emerging opportunities, technology manufacturers and retailers must be able to understand changing behaviours and anticipate future trends.

The current state of play

In 2016, around two thirds of the population were familiar with the idea of smart home technology, but that number has grown over the last seven years – driven in part by the popularity of items like smart speakers.[iii]  

According to one 2023 analysis, the percentage of UK adults owning at least one connected home device sat at around 80%, a three percent growth from 2022 – reflecting the leisurely but reliable increase in uptake in this sector.[iv] This ownership is reasonably consistent through different age groups, though differences emerge when we look at multi-device ownership. 43% of 16-24 year olds and 45% of 25-34 year olds own three or more devices, a significant increase compared to the overall UK multi-ownership average of 34%. These groups are key to the future adoption of these devices; as they continue to gain spending power and move into their own homes, it is likely they will acquire more smart products.

While awareness of connected products has certainly grown, there is a mixed picture when we attempt to understand how frequently we are purchasing and using these products. To gain a clearer understanding, Asurion Europe’s recent study investigated the adoption and usage rates of smart home devices in the last few years.

Measuring growth: Adoption & usage

Asurion’s Adoption Index reflects the population’s access to devices and channels, based on factors such as: internet users, adult social media users, mobile internet users, wearable owners and the penetration of smart home devices. Meanwhile, the Usage Index displays the amount of time we actually spend using these products, for activities like browsing the internet and social media, streaming TV, playing on games consoles, and online shopping.

There is an important distinction between the two. Though someone may have a social media account or own a smartwatch, it is not necessarily the case that they using the account or smartwatch. In fact, YouGov found that around one in ten smart watch owners do not use their device[v]. For platforms like social media accounts which are free to acquire, this number is likely to be much higher.

This explains why usage rates typically lag behind adoption, as Asurion found in the study. When a new smart home product enters the market, there is often a gap from the point where it is an item of novelty to when it has become a well-used part of the furniture.

The opportunity gap

With that in mind, the Adoption and Usage indices below give us two very different but useful insights. The Usage Index demonstrates our current dependency, while the Adoption Index indicates our potential future dependency. Monitoring these indices in the coming years should shed light on the speed of usage, and when we are likely to see the latest home tech truly take off. The current gap between adoption and usage therefore represents an opportunity for technology firms, highlighting crucial points for promoting products, stimulating further usage or encouraging eventual device replacement or upgrades.

Technology companies who are acutely aware of these changing trends and demands from their customer base will be best placed to develop offerings that capture the imagination of consumers. However, as we become more reliant on the connected functionality of our devices and their ability to perform a range of tasks, the inconvenience of device failures will only become greater. In fact, our recent survey of over 2,000 consumers found that at least once a quarter, over a third of respondents experience a significant issue with one electronic device in the home. This means support from comprehensive and affordable tech protection services will be increasingly valuable to ensure the full collection of devices in our connected homes remain up and running.

As CEO of Asurion Europe, Gavin Miller is leading the expansion of the global tech care company in the region. Gavin started his career at global customer experience company Sitel (now Foundever) before moving on to C-suite roles supporting rapid growth and acquisition in a range of businesses, including the largest telephone fundraising specialist in the UK, a commercial contact centre business and a provider of debt management services.

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Lifestyle

Summer running: expert tips to safeguard your eyes from heat and sun

Running, as one of the most natural forms of recreation, comes with a long list of health benefits such as better cardiovascular health, improved knee and back health, better immunity, improved mood and overall energy, and better sleep.

Summer, despite being considered a nice time for a run due to the sunny weather, is the most hated season in the running community.

Running in the heat takes extra energy and it can take a toll on eye health. Prolonged exposure to UV rays can cause cataracts, macular degeneration, and pterygium (growth on the eye’s surface), while sweat and sun cream can lead to eye pain and blurred vision.

Nimmi Mistry, professional service optician at Vision Direct, shares insight on how to protect your eyes during summer runs.

Blinded by the lights: UV ray exposure can lead to serious eye damage

Running enthusiasts usually have their summer runs in the morning or evening, as these periods have lower temperatures. Despite the sun being lower then and runners looking down during their runs, indirect sunlight can cause serious eye damage as it reflects from surfaces.

Our eyes have natural protection, as corneas absorb UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C radiation, but they can absorb only half of it. The rest reaches the retina, which is responsible for sharp vision and the macula, and can cause damage such as:

Pterygium or Surfer’s Eye. This condition includes tissue growth in the eye that is directly connected to long-term exposure to UV light and can affect anyone that spends a lot of time outdoors without adequate protection. You can actually see this as a lumpy growth in your eye and although it’s not cancerous, it can cause eye inflammation, lead to dry eye, and cause other eye issues like itching, burning eye pain, or even lead to blurred and double vision. The only treatment for it is surgery.

Cataracts: With age, proteins and fibers in the lens begin to break down, causing changes in the eye tissues. Cataracts are basically little clouds in the eye lens that can cause vision problems and typically start appearing around age 40.  Studies have confirmed that UV rays can trigger the eye damage seen in cataracts, as they harm the proteins in the eyes in the same way. Prolonged exposure to the sun may cause your eyes to deteriorate even before you are 40.

Macular Degeneration: This is another age-related eye condition in which the macula, the part of the eye responsible for seeing sharp details, gets damaged. It’s common in people 65 years and older, and while the direct causes are not completely understood (generally bad habits like smoking, high cholesterol, and high blood pressure), studies have proven that exposure to UV rays increases the risk of developing macular degeneration.

Salt and acid from sweat leads to eye irritations 

Eyebrows are our natural barrier against getting sweat into eyes, but during summer runs they are not enough. The burning feeling of getting sweat mixed with sunscreen in your eyes isn’t just a temporary setback to your running pace.

Sweat that drips from your scalp to your eyes contains salt and acid, and can be potentially harmful. The salt in sweat can cause eye irritations, a burning feeling, blurred vision, or stinging eyes. If the sweat is mixed with sunscreen, the pain can be even sharper.

How to protect your eyes when running in the summer?

Whether you’re running on trails or on roads, you should definitely take care of your eyes, especially if you’re a long distance enthusiast.

  1. Wear sunglasses while running: This may seem logical but loads of runners still think running with glasses is uncomfortable. This may be true if they are wearing prescription glasses, but not if they wear specific lightweight sunglasses designed for outdoor activities. Wearing sunglasses is really imperative when it comes to eye protection as they block out 99 to 100% of UVA and UVB rays.
  2. Switch to contact lenses: If you’re wearing prescription glasses, seriously consider switching to contact lenses for sports or any summer activities. They will allow you to wear sunglasses, and with contacts, you also get additional UV protection and better peripheral vision. Daily contact lenses are the best choice for beginners, and they don’t have as much protein build-up, making them more comfortable to wear.
  3. Wear a running hat: The first choice for eye protection during summer is sunglasses, but if for any reason you can’t wear them, a running hat with additional UPF protection is a must. It will protect you from direct UV rays, but not from indirect UV rays, which again, can be really harmful. A running hat can be a nice addition to sunglasses, as it keeps sweat (combined with sunscreen) from dripping down and impairing your vision.
  4. Headbands: Headbands alone can’t protect your eyes from the sun, but it is a good idea to combine them with sunglasses to stop sweat and sunscreen getting into your eyes.

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